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MJN PLUMB & TILE |
able to identify and stop any water leak in the home in the event of an emergency. This will prevent unnecessary damage to building fabric and save punitive emergency call out fees from the professional plumber. The expectation is that with feedback from the visitors to this page the information offered will grow. Overview of a common domestic plumbing system Mains water is supplied to the building from a centralized supplier; this must be of a good enough quality for direct consumption (potable), and at a minimum statutory pressure. Once supplied to the building the only outlet which must carry this water direct from source is the kitchen tap, so guarantying access to drinking water in the home. In the past it was often the case that water supply would be interrupted, so storage solutions were employed as a matter of course. This was done by having a water tank situated at the top of the building, as a container for mains water (cold water storage tank). The water in this tank then becomes non-potable, and can only be used for washing, hot and cold, (to drink this water it must at least be boiled and possibly filtered first). It is supplied to the various outlets under the pressure afforded by acceleration due to gravity, and is therefore termed a gravity feed system. The pressure afforded by gravity can be calculated broadly by multiplying every10 metres in height from a source to an outlet by 1, and dividing the answer by 10, to give the answer in bar. EXAMPLE: Cold water storage tank in the loft 10 meters from the bath tap; 10 x 1 = 10 divided by 10 = 1bar at the tap. Domestic mains water pressure is considered good if it is no less than 3-4bar, and can be termed 'high pressure'. Gravity feed systems can therefore give low pressure cold water to taps and to vented hot water cylinders. The (normally) copper hot water cylinder collects water from the cold water storage tank, and is heated directly by an electrical element (immersion heater), or indirectly by a coiled pipe containing heated water from a boiler (central heating primary), or both. When water is heated it expands and if sealed (e.g. by closed hot water taps or valves), it becomes pressurized. Therefore the hot water cylinder must be 'vented' or open to the atmosphere. This is done by extending the hot water supply pipe at the top of the cylinder (which must be horizontal for a minimum of 450mm before teeing off), up to the cold water storage tank and bent over the top of the tank (the vent pipe), above the possible water level in the tank, and left open with no valves in line. Thus giving the heated water if heated to a high degree, a chance to escape into the cold water storage tank, preventing rupture (potentially explosive), of the hot water cylinder or hot water pipes. The vent pipe must be at least 22mm in diameter and open at all times, and the cold water storage tank must have at all times an open overflow pipe, of at least 15mm in diameter, it must be metal and exiting the building to discharge safely i.e. not above a space where people might be below. In this way if the vent pipe constantly delivers extremely hot water to the cold water storage tank, the tank which will become full of dangerously hot water, can't spill over into the interior of the building raining hot water down on the inhabitants below. The hot water used for washing, termed 'domestic hot water', is obtained from the same pipe as the vent pipe, via a pipe taken after the vent tee. Cold denser water delivered to the bottom of the cylinder pushes the hot less dense water up and around the system, with pressure afforded by gravity from the cold water storage tank. Therefore if the cold water feed pipe to the hot water cylinder is closed by a gate valve, (typically having a red coloured wheel which when turned clockwise will close the valve), this will cut off the supply of hot water to the taps and other hot outlets. The valve will be situated on a pipe leaving the bottom of the cold water storage tank. This valve will probably be situated alongside an identical valve on a similar pipe, which supplies cold water to taps and other cold outlets. Closing both of these valves will stop the water to all hot and cold water outlets, except the kitchen cold tap and any other cold outlets taken from the mains supply e.g. the tank feed. All mains supplies will be valved with a traditional looking stop valve, closing this valve should shut off all mains supplies to the building. Look for it under a kitchen sink, in the hallway near the front door, or in the cellar. The pipe feeding the cold water storage tank will also have this type of valve in line. The preceding information should not encourage an untrained individual to have a go at adding to, altering an existing, or commission a new heating system. Rather it is intended to give people an understaning of how to find the relevant cut off points within a system, in order to repair outlets or stop flood caused by sudden damage to a component within that system. By clicking on the picture links at the top of this page the reader can gain an appreciation of basic techniques, needed to conduct basic plumbing repairs. |
DIY PLUMBING |
Re-new pipe end and tap connector |
Plumbing in the home is not rocket science, however it is a skill and if done without care and knowledge can be damaging and or dangerous. This page is intended for the keen do it yourself person, who needs some basic background knowledge of common issues surrounding basic domestic plumbing for water usage. At the very least with attention to the following advice, the reader will be |